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That is really important." After about three hours I leave the banya.Steam mistress Olga, as I depart, calls out the traditional "S' logkim parom!It really is an unusual sight; this group of naked women with felt hats pulled down over their foreheads, who cocoon themselves up to the tips of their noses in large sheets in order to escape the punishing heat.The group, which just a short while ago was happily chatting, now falls silent as they sit on wooden benches waiting for the heat to hit them.Everyday life in Russia is not easy; Moscow is fascinating, but also loud and hectic.A banya visit is a little like an excursion into real Russian life.

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Tamara, the woman next to me, goes to a banya once a week.The water temperature here is 4 degrees, apparently.But so far as my perception on entering the pool goes, water this cold would normally be frozen.Traditionally banyas have two floors, the oven being on the lower level.All the Russian ladies I'm with sit down on the upper level.

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